Stratford-Upon-Avon

I was sick of reading. I was sick of Oxford. So Nellie and I decided to go to Stratford to visit Shakespeare.

Our day began by catching the #20 bus from Oxford to Chipping Norton. Once there, we caught the #50 bound for Stratford. The whole trip took about two hours bouncing around narrow country roads in one of England's famous double decker buses. For those of you who are contemplating visiting England, always sit on the top, you can see better and you wont get sick!

Stratford is a relatively small town and was rather quiet until a few years after Shakespeare's death when people started showing up to visit his home town. Nellie and I began at the beginning at Shakespeare's birth place. The Tudor style house was occupied by the Shakespeare family starting in 1552. William was born in 1564. The house has creaking wooden floors, painted wall coverings, and drafty walls as was the norm in the 16th century.


Our tour was improved by a very friendly tour guide who, in addition to giving us the history of the house, instructed us on the history of the Star Spangled Banner, which, according to him, was based off of a popular English drinking song. He even sang the first verse for us. If you are either extremely interested in this fact, or incredibly bored, you can read the full story.

The second landmark which we visited was Nash's house, the retirement home of Shakespeare which he purchased for 60 pounds in 1597. It was one of the largest buildings in Stratford at the time. The house was inherited by Shakespeare's daughter Susanna after his death. Eventually, passed to the Rev. Francis Gastrell. Gastrell grew tired of tourist and Shakespeare fans poking around in his garden, so one night he went out and chopped all the trees (planted by Shakespeare himself) down for firewood. A short while later, after a dispute with the local town council over property taxes, Gastrell burned the whole building to the ground. Today's version of the building is based off of written accounts, drawings, and historical records.

Nellie really enjoyed the gardens of Nash's House. In the summer, the flowers would amazing. At the moment, they are just poking out of the ground. We ate lunch in the back yard of the house watching the birds and looking at the interesting bushes. It was a beautiful day, slightly chilly, but bright and sunny!

The final home we visited was Hall's Croft, the home of Shakespeare's daughter Susanna who married the prestigious Doctor John Hall in 1607. Dr. Hall ran a very successful medical practice which is evident from his richly furnished and decorated home which also contained his examining room.

At Hall's Croft, we met another friendly tour guide who was not quite as well informed on America as our previous guide.

"I hear there are a lot of guns in America" he said to us. "It must be horribly dangerous. "

"Not really, I replied, guns don't kill people, people do. Gun, knife, 2x4, it's all the same. We're no more dangerous in America than anywhere else."

He then proceeded to complain about the drop in tourism since 911, the auto industry, and American consumerism. "Nice to meet you....got to go!" Thankfully, not all of the English stereotype Americans like he did.

After concluding our tour of homes, Nellie and I visited several Antique shops in search of a copy of a nice old edition of Shakespeare's plays. I have to admit I was skeptical of finding anything, but I found an awesome copy of Shakespeare's Complete Works from 1910 in an antique store across the street from his birthplace. Now when I teach Shakespeare to high schoolers, I can pull out my book and tell them the story behind it!

Nellie and I enjoyed our tour of Shakespeare. It's a definite "must see" if you visit England.

To end, I must quote the illustrious poet and playwrite:

"Be not afraid of greatness.
Some are born great, some achieve greatness,
and some have greatness thrust upon 'em." (Twelfth Night II.5)